Friday 16 March 2012

The Silk Road: a Road of Despair

Herat City is a registered UNESCO historical site: one of the cities on the ancient Silk Road that joined east and west. Today some of the original mud walls of the old City can still be seen just beyond the main roads. In sight of these ancient walls that protected the inhabitants and ran alongside the international lifeline that enabled migration, diversity and trade - lies a three story building that caters for some of the most insidious and life destroying evils of modern trade and migration.

Only 45 minutes East of Herat is the Iranian border and it is across this border - into and out of Afghanistan - that drugs and people are bought and sold. Men are drawn into 'grass is greener' Iran looking for work, desperate for ways to support families, but many of them find drugs and practice unsafe sex. Some contract STIs or HIV/AIDS and return home where they infect wives; which in turn impacts on children.

At the Drop-In Centre males who are HIV positive and drug users find a place where they are accepted and cared for. A day care facility that is open 7 days a week, it provides shower and laundry facilities, needle swap programs, sewing and art classes as well as limited medical care for up to 60 men.

The Centre is nothing like the care centres you see in the minority world, there is little about it that is appealing, but despite this, men come from all over the district to attend here because, as one man said to me, "I feel safe here and I trust the men that work here".

It is in some ways quite a depressing place, but in response to my question to one of the staff of why he worked here, he said; "this is my prayer".

Five minutes away, in a back alley, there is another three story building that caters for women between the ages of 15-45 who have been infected by STIs, sex workers and pregnant Mums. They come here "because they do not feel judged" and because, for the most part they are not welcome, or catered for any where else.

As I walked into the health care clinic and there was a mad rush of women covering their heads with blue hijab and children hiding behind their mums, (before their curiosity got the better of them). Here in a bright room, women receive medical care, counselling, teaching, some vocational training and education. Soon, on the floor above, a kindergarten will commence which will cater for their children, and other children from the high risk community surrounding the clinic.

"If only one woman knows she is respected and is cared for, then this centre is worth it", said the Doctor in charge. The chances that this clinic has a long life are very slim, but in the meantime, women are having their dignity restored, and they have other professional women that fight for them.