On January 1, 1804, Haiti (Haitian Creole: Ajiti, land of high mountains) proclaimed its independence and became the second independent state in the Western Hemisphere and the first free black republic in the world. This unprecedented victory over a colonial power symbolised the aspirations of enslaved and exploited peoples around the world. Today (206 years after independence) outside the now destroyed Presidential Palace in Port-au-Prince you will see (an unscathed by earthquake) statue that symbolizes this struggle for freedom. Called “Neg Maron” (Brown Man) it depicts a slave blowing a conch shell while holding a machete in his other hand with a broken chain and handcuff. The conch shell was used to call escaped slaves to gather; the machete was used to cut sugar cane and to fight off the French; and the broken chain symbolises slaves breaking from bondage and reclaiming their freedom.
[By the way: When the French ruled, they established a law stipulating that only they, the ruling class, the rich and free, could eat soup. Their New Year's Day tradition was to eat soup. But when Haiti proclaimed its independence, all Haitians - slaves and generals, land owners and cane cutters – all ate soup. It was their way of demonstrating that everyone was equal and the tradition has been adopted – now Haitians eat soup on Independence Day!]
Neg Maron has become one of the ubiquitous symbols of Haiti. At just about any, and every, souvenir stall in the city you’ll find wooden, stone; large and small representations of Neg Maron.
I wonder if anyone has contemplated the paradox of symbolism that exists today. Looming huge in the background the now imploded and inevitably demolished (White House) Presidential Palace. One of the country’s most powerful symbols of authority, its sterile whiteness and imagined luxury protected from the commoners by fences and guns. The seat of power and some would say the blockade of progress. In the foreground, casting a shadow on the manicured lawns of the broken Palace, Neg Maron, historical symbol of freedom, equality and enterprise; image of celebration and new opportunity stands unprotected and disaffected by the forces of nature. I wonder if you can imagine the disdain with which he faces another attack, and stands! Which symbol will dominate, or perhaps inform Haiti’s future?
