Tuesday 25 October 2011

Baku, Azerbaijan

I wish I had the words to describe my first impressions of Baku. Arriving in the early hours of the morning in any city I think can probably leave you with a false impression – and Baku was, for me, no exception.

At 2:30am, my car sped down the wide, almost empty, motorway. We shot past huge impressive buildings that made me feel like I was in some kind of alternate universe. Russian, Islamic, Orthodox, Asian, all were represented. Then I came to a street with all the name brand clothes: Gucci, Armani, Prada, you name them and their here. But when I came to what appeared to be the huge stone walls of a fortress, and drove through a narrow gate between looming stone turrets, I knew I wasn’t in Melbourne any more.

I am staying in a small Hotel in Icherisheher (www.icherisheher.gov.az), or the Old City. The original site and buildings of Baku. Narrow, cobble stoned roads wind like a maze inside the walls. (And the way we sped through them made me feel like I was in a scene from a Bond or Bourne movie.) I am living 1 minute walk from the most iconic image of Baku, Qiz Qalasi (Maiden Tower).

At 10:00am, my car was stuck in what seemed to be one long traffic jam as we made our way to the office. Up past the construction of the new symbol of Baku, the Baku Flames, (the photo of the tall glass buildings) and again past shops bearing the names of international brands, huge Russian style government buildings with bronze statues of Presidents and Bolsheviks and new and old apartment complexes with washing hanging out the windows and cats which seem to be everywhere.

So first, and very surface level impression: this is an amazingly diverse and friendly city of about 2.5 million people. Little Russian sedan cars dodge large Japanese SUVs, and everyone goes where ever they need get to where they want, but fast, very fast. It was a good day.