Reclaiming Childhood

The streets of Herat, as with many cities around the world, are the workplace of a lot of desperate children from 4 or 5 years old upwards. Little boys and girls work all day scavenging for plastics and tins, selling lollies, cleaning shoes, washing cars and assisting mechanics and truck drivers.

Many families see no other option: if Mum and Dad are unskilled, sick or disabled then the children work or there is no food, no medicine; if there is no Mum and Dad and children live with elderly grandparents or relatives then they work; if Mum is alone, then they work.

I’m not sure that it matters which culture you live in, what you believe or what income you have, a parent does not want to send their young child out to work. No father wants to see his children deprived. No mother wants her child to be hungry. But life circumstances can sometimes gang up against you and force you to entertain ‘sub-prime’ options.

Over the past year 100 boys and girls between 7-10 years have been attending the Herat Support for Street Children Centre with the approval and support of the carers. Divided into 2 groups, 50 girls in the morning, and 50 boys in the afternoon, they receive basic education that will equip them for school entry, (83% of them passed their school entry exams), they have classes on health, hygiene, personal safety and child rights. During the 10 months the children are with us they have two health checks and any necessary health intervention, and with their families they receive personal counselling.

At the same time one of their parents is either equipped to earn an income or sent to a vocational training course. The hope is that the majority of families will have a significant increase in household income that is not reliant on street child income.

Today I was shown into each of the three classrooms to a chorus of little girls greeting me with huge shy smiles and a sing-song “As-Salaam alaikum”, (they didn’t laugh too much when I returned the greeting) they showed me some of the work they had been doing then invited me to join them for a lunch of Afghan bread and sabsi.

Next week, 100 children will graduate from the Centre and will be presented with a School starter kit before they walk into a government school for the first time. By the beginning of May another 100 children will have been selected and the year will start again, at this stage we have funding to transform the lives of 300 children and their families.

Zindajan, Herat

Zindajan is like no other village I have ever seen, and I wish I could do it justice in this limited attempt at a description. (You can see some of the photos in the slide show.)

I’m sure it will make little sense, but today I felt like a time traveller: appearing out of a sand storm that had reduced our visibility to not more than ten meters, Zindajan suddenly materialised in front of me, as if it had risen from the miles of endless desert. Sand coloured buildings, with flat and domed roofs, narrow streets lined one side with winter barren almond trees, arched doorways leading down into dark homes, overflowing irrigation channels filled with snow melt, vicious winds plunging the temperature and not a person in sight.

I was in the village to meet with the village Health Shura (leadership committee) and to talk with them about the Water Sanitation & Health (WASH) project that is being implemented in theirs, and a number of other villages in the district.

Designed to contribute towards improving the health status of children aged 0-5 years in 285 villages, the project partners are educating parents and children about hygiene and health issues, water purification and storage, water source rehabilitation and security and supplying training and material to enable families to build a pit latrine (550 in all).

A major cause of morbidity in these rural Afghani communities is diarrhoea, caused (in the main) by unsafe water and hygiene practices. But it’s no good just building latrines, people need to understand why age old cultural practices such as open defecation are causing sickness and to want to change their behaviour, and then to be given the equipment and knowledge to make changes.

A vital part of this project (and most work in Afghanistan) is garnering the support of, and partnering with the existing community leadership structures – especially the village Mullah. The Mullah is probably the most powerful influence in any community and through his Friday lesson and other teaching opportunities he has an unrivalled in to the lives and behaviour of the members of his community. So a great deal of time is spent winning and educating the Mullah.

This has happened in Zindajan: today as I sat with the Mullah, the female and male Shura leaders, the Community Health Workers (CHW) and the project managers, I listened to stories of how the simple lessons of hand washing, water purifying from a $0.50 sachet and latrine construction all are coming together in this community to bring resilience and healthy children.

And I heard that most important (I believe) of all lessons repeated again: “We trust you because you have done, and are doing, what you promised; and you have stayed, you have been amongst us!”

The method of sustainability in Zindajan (for this initiative) is behaviour change: but the secret to success is: Relationships of Trust - built on respect for the other regardless of religion and race, gender and status - framed within a deep sensitivity to and acceptance of culture.

Citadels and Weddings

About 2,300 years ago Alexander the Great came to Herat and laid the foundations for what today is known as the Citadel of Alexander, Herat Citadel or Qala Iktyaruddin. Over the years a number of different conquering armies have used it and in the 1950s some bright military spark decided that it was too damages so started to demolish it to use the material for buildings elsewhere. He was soon dispatched, and the site was protected.

Over the past few years UNESCO, partnering with a number of donors, has undertaken the work of restoring this amazing Citadel. Sitting on top a man made hill in the middle of Old Herat City, it dominates the landscape and provides an amazing vantage point from which to see the City.

At over 250m in length and 70m wide and with some of it towers rising 60m above the ground, it is an awesome sight. Beautifully restored, amazingly clean and eerily quiet it stands in stark contrast to the chaotic liveliness of the bazaars, workshops, mosques and houses that surround it on all sides.

I had the opportunity to get out and visit the Citadel this morning, and with the help of a security friend get a backstage pass that allowed us to climb to the top of the towers, and to see areas that are still to be restored.

From the top of the tower I had a 360deg view of the city of Herat. Sand/mud houses spread out below us, with satellite dishes on their flat roofs; the famous Blue Mosque rose in the distance, one lone green tree stood in defiance. It was quite an amazing site.

In the distance, through the haze I could make out the Herat Minarets from which we had just travelled. At one time these were the focal points of a huge mosque complex, but today, out of the dozen or so there are only 5 left. Damaged badly, despite their UNESCO listing, they still manage to grab your attention. At the foot of one of the minarets young boys were using the dirt and natural divots as a BMX track, the excavated corridors and tunnels near another have become the local hangout for the hashish smokers, and at night – let’s just say this is a place you don’t want to be.

Standing next to the “leaning minaret” stands the amazing Mausoleum of Queen Goharshad who ruled in these parts in the 1400s. The original blue tile work still decorates some of the surfaces of the minarets and tomb. It is quite an amazing feeling to stand in these places that have dominated a people for over 2,000 years.

And, then just when we were ready to relax, we headed off as guests to a wedding. I sat with (what they tell me) was about 1,000 other men, the women were somewhere else in the building (don’t ask where) and we at goat, chicken, rice and bread to the accompaniment of very loud Afghan music and men dancing. The groom made an entrance and was walked around the room, and then left to have a meal with his new wife, and as soon as the food was done everyone left.

Quite an amazing day!

Mobile Church

Today was the Sabbath, in Afghanistan anyway and I had the opportunity to meet with a small group of Christians here in Herat.

Obviously, security is an issue for all internationals in Afghanistan and there are a number of measures taken to do all that can be done to make sure that people are safe. Office routes and times are varied, VHF radios become attachments and the phonetic alphabet, including call signs, becomes common language.

Around the city small groups of people meet covertly: a Mobile Church, a Mobile Bar and who knows what else. The location rotates and can change at the last moment. The details are known only by the members, and confirmation that the group will meet is kept fluid. But this morning, the first day of the weekend – all the call signs aligned and a few of us travelled out to a large house, surrounded by a 15’, razor wire topped, concrete wall in the city to meet for worship and fellowship.

Behind the wall was a very old, large, typically Herat, house. In the Persian/Tajik style it had high ceilings, large corridors and thick mud brick walls that hold the heat, or the cold. A beautifully lush green grass square drew the focus of the back yard. The compound walls were lined by blossoming almond trees heavy with scent and bees, the sky was amazingly blue and clear and the sun hot. Spring in Herat is beautiful!

I sat with a group of 12 people; two Mennonites from Memphis, a couple of Southern Baptists, a Methodist from the UK, a Presbyterian from Glasgow, a couple of AOG from California, and a Salvo from Melbourne. Together, surrounded by the beauty of God’s work, we sat on cushions on the floor, in a closed room, so that the sound would not carry. We sang “How great is our God” and other songs of worship before being led in a study of Psalm 19 by a young Dr, a woman, a Mennonite (who would not be allowed to lead Bible study at home).

An amazingly unique opportunity: the anti-cultural dynamics; the diversity of nationality, denomination, agency; the secure environment and the presence of taboo gender roles (not just in an Afghan, but a U.S. Mennonite context) all made me think that this was just a small part of what God wants the church to look like.

A group of misfits, meeting together to be encouraged and equipped to go out into a hostile environment to serve, accept and love all people, even some who are openly hostile, and by their actions attempt to partner in the work of building strong, safe and supportive relationships. Sound familiar, interesting, scary, mad or attractive?

The Silk Road: a Road of Despair

Herat City is a registered UNESCO historical site: one of the cities on the ancient Silk Road that joined east and west. Today some of the original mud walls of the old City can still be seen just beyond the main roads. In sight of these ancient walls that protected the inhabitants and ran alongside the international lifeline that enabled migration, diversity and trade - lies a three story building that caters for some of the most insidious and life destroying evils of modern trade and migration.

Only 45 minutes East of Herat is the Iranian border and it is across this border - into and out of Afghanistan - that drugs and people are bought and sold. Men are drawn into 'grass is greener' Iran looking for work, desperate for ways to support families, but many of them find drugs and practice unsafe sex. Some contract STIs or HIV/AIDS and return home where they infect wives; which in turn impacts on children.

At the Drop-In Centre males who are HIV positive and drug users find a place where they are accepted and cared for. A day care facility that is open 7 days a week, it provides shower and laundry facilities, needle swap programs, sewing and art classes as well as limited medical care for up to 60 men.

The Centre is nothing like the care centres you see in the minority world, there is little about it that is appealing, but despite this, men come from all over the district to attend here because, as one man said to me, "I feel safe here and I trust the men that work here".

It is in some ways quite a depressing place, but in response to my question to one of the staff of why he worked here, he said; "this is my prayer".

Five minutes away, in a back alley, there is another three story building that caters for women between the ages of 15-45 who have been infected by STIs, sex workers and pregnant Mums. They come here "because they do not feel judged" and because, for the most part they are not welcome, or catered for any where else.

As I walked into the health care clinic and there was a mad rush of women covering their heads with blue hijab and children hiding behind their mums, (before their curiosity got the better of them). Here in a bright room, women receive medical care, counselling, teaching, some vocational training and education. Soon, on the floor above, a kindergarten will commence which will cater for their children, and other children from the high risk community surrounding the clinic.

"If only one woman knows she is respected and is cared for, then this centre is worth it", said the Doctor in charge. The chances that this clinic has a long life are very slim, but in the meantime, women are having their dignity restored, and they have other professional women that fight for them.

Improving Survival & Well-being of Afghan Boys and Girls

In a back Alley of Herat, not too far from the hospital there's a large old three storey house with a very high wall topped with razor wire, and a number of other security measures. This, for the last ten years, has been the headquarters for a staff of about 70 people doing their best to "improve survival and well-being of Afghan boys and girls by building foundations for a better future for Afghan children and their communities".

Part of my role here is to monitor projects funded through the Australian Government's, Australian NGO Cooperation Program (ANCP). This portfolio is relatively small, but in this country and amongst the Afghan people these interventions can literally be the difference between life and death, or surviving and living well. We work in the areas of livelihoods, health (in particular STI, HIV/AIDS), education and child survival.

So, in the next few days I will be meeting with the staff that manage four programs in particular. These are:

1. Herat WASH: a Water, Sanitation and Health project that aims to improve the health status of children between 0-5 years through training in sanitation and health practices, water sources rehabilitation and latrine construction
2. Street Children Centre: a Child Protection, Child Rescue project that has established a safe place for (street) working children to be accepted and loved! Over three years, three sessions of 100 children will receive basic education that will prepare them for mainstream schooling as well as provide psychological counselling, health checks and education and life skills. At the same time caregivers will receive "parenting" training and vocational training to help raise their income.
3. Badghis Sustainable Livelihoods: a food security and livelihoods project that hopes to recover and stabilise rural livelihoods in Badghis where people are impacted by prolonged drought. Using a human capacity building (HCD) method of empowerment and mapping we aim to create certainty in water supply for survival during inevitable drought and natural disaster.
4. Beekeeping in Badghis: a women's empowerment and livelihoods project that aims to engage women in sustainable, culturally acceptable, income generation. Building on the success of a previous project Beekeeping will broaden it's focus to engage the whole family in this viable business with the hope of improving the self-determination of women and improving the economy of the family and community.

Other exciting projects in Afghanistan include a project that is changing the lives of people with HIV/AIDS, and their children; an education project that aims to train youth (15-25), young women to be teachers, and young men in relevant vocations; and Establishing Early Childhood Space (ECCD) that provides a safe place for pre-schoolers to receive basic education and health care.

There are some exciting things happening here in Afghanistan: in a very fragile and disadvantaged context children's lives are being transformed; drug users are being detoxed, educated and offered viable options; women are having their dignity restored, or built, they are being empowered and educated; and families are finding ways to safeguard their water source and establish systems for disaster risk reduction (DRR).

In the next few days I have the privilege of listening to people tell me their stories: whether they are staff telling me why they work in this field, or beneficiaries telling me how good, or bad, the project is - for a little while I get to see (even in such a shallow way) into another world, and another life.

51 Hours Later

Like the 'mythological' Bonnie Doon, Herat appeared suddenly when we descended below the dense white, snow laden clouds; there, from within the cold wet fog, Herat appeared. 54 hours after leaving Parkville, I arrived in the Western Afghan city that 25 years ago today (14 March) was bombed by the Soviets.

But, on the way I was reminded of some of the cultural differences that exist betwen me and my hosts. Like, proxemics; personal space - the expectation of it is non-existent here. For some one who likes his space, I had to remind myself to breathe and adapt! The absence of women; on a plane of 300 people there would maybe have been 20 women and girls and there was little sign of women on the streets on the drive into town. And don't expect orderly embarkation or seat assignment; but that's the fun part of the process - after the strict order of Dubai it took a few minutes to adjust - but adjust you do, or get swept along.

So, arrived an hour late, found my luggage on the overloaded 1 tonne truck that drove the baggage out into the carpark where a swarm of young boys with wheelbarrows fought the owners of the bags to "assist you sir, for 1 dollar, sir", and drove through a number of police and military checkpoints, to find our way to a very large, secure compound where I will be based for the next few weeks.

My travelling companion, Bandit, (you might just see him in the picture) and I have travelled all over the world together, but not to a place as cold as this; we usually do the hot places of the globe - so our winter adventure begins.

To Afghanistan (and Back)

The latest adventure has begun. I am heading into Afghanistan for a short visit during which I will work with the World Vision Afghanistan team based in Herat, western Afghanistan. During my time I will have the privilege of working with the team to (1) facilitate workshops on project writing, design and reporting, as well as conducting training in child-focused development and participation, (2) hold discussions with the leadership team about strategy and vision, (3) monitor three projects that are focused on street kids, women's empowerment and food security and livelihoods. (More about that later.)

But at the moment, I am in Dubai. I have a 23 hour lay-over so I have booked into a hotel in the City and after some sleep have ridden the Dubai Metro having a bit of a look around. I went to the Mall of Dubai, a soulless, huge shopping centre, one of those ubiquitous arcades where you could have been anywhere in the world - if you could ignore the huge aquarium in the centre, the worlds largest fountain display, the waterfall, the Gold Souk and of course, the imposing Burj Khalifa - the tallest tower in the world. All very impressive.

As I travelled above the ground in air conditioned comfort, I watched the amazing diversity fly past. Huge towers of glass and metal compete to win the prize of most unusual, and most exclusive. Whilst in the shadows of these giants is white desert sand, densely packed apartment blocks, mosques and a perpetual haze that hangs low over the city. Out of this haze and in the distance emerged another icon of the Emirate, the Burj Al Arab, the world's most luxurious hotel.

So, after a quick look around, I head back to the airport for the flight into Kabul and on to Herat.

Covenant, Vision and Investment

It’s Monday morning, the weekend seems to have escaped my notice and I spend a few minutes trying to tell myself that I am where I should be (at work) – as opposed to lounging in a hammock under a coconut tree – or anywhere else really!

So, in the start up process for another day, I ask myself why it matters! What about what I will do today will energise me and help me get on with it? Why does it matter? (This is not a defeated, ‘worm theology’, glass half-empty, woe is me introspection – it’s just a stock take, gee-up, refocus.)

In that process I reflect on the covenants I have made, the ‘bigger than me’ visions I believe in, the people that have invested in me – I want to be faithful to these. I want to make sure that the people that have sacrificed for me know that their ‘investment’ is making a difference.

Twenty-four years ago I covenanted with God “to live to win souls and make their salvation the first purpose of my life; to care for the poor, feed the hungry, clothe the naked, love the unlovable, and befriend those who have no friends”. Today this covenant still claims my energies and my purpose. I have the privilege of working to reveal God and God’s salvation priority in some pretty awful and hostile contexts.

And, claiming William Booth’s vision as my own: “While women weep, as they do now, I'll fight; while children go hungry, as they do now I'll fight... while there is a poor lost girl upon the streets, while there remains one dark soul without the light of God, I'll fight.” So, I look at my project list and remember that:

• With a team in Eastern Europe I am working to educate people about the evil of trafficking of persons, especially children and reclaiming the childhood of ‘poor lost girls upon the streets’.
• With the team in Afghanistan I work to empower and restore the dignity of women and girls who are owned, marginalised and disempowered.
• In Lebanon and Bosnia Hercogevina I work with a team to facilitate interfaith dialogue and learning with the aim of building relationships of peace that will eradicate hate filled conflicts that are based on ignorance - revealing how God is present.
• And, whilst the invisible, hungry street kids, (the 4 year old rag pickers, grimy oil scrapers and the defeated, empty-eyed sex toys) in the Rawalpindi bus depot continue to be exploited – I’ll work! 

So, get on with it Daryl!

Faith and Development

When it comes to Development [community, market, communications or cultural], Christianity has not always been a good thing!

A quick, surface scan through the history of "development" invites a number of modern swear words such as: paternalistic, colonialist, empire-builder, genocidaires, jihad and do-gooder - qualities and agenda that can be levelled at (probably) all religious groups - Christians, Muslims, Jews, Hindus, Buddhists... (Some thing Christian's don't want to claim a monopoly on!)

A good deal of my ministry these days causes me to reflect on how a Christian partners with people in development in light of this history and then add that my 'development world' is over 90% Islamic; most of 'my (fragile context) countries' have suffered, or are suffering through genocide, war, food & water shortage, gender, cultural or religious oppression - what does development from a Christian look like?

I work for an international development agency that articulates overtly that "We are Christian" and stipulates that "we look forward to a world where every child experiences Jesus' promise of life in all its fullness", and I make no apology for that. But does my faith help or hinder?

Many people (mainly christians) would want to convince me that it matters, that it is a major barrier - but my experience tells me otherwise. (I'm not suggesting that there are not people that will try and make it an issue.) I have never hidden the fact that I am a follower of Jesus and that my dream for us all is that "we will experience life in all it's fullness".

The words of an Islamic teacher (an Imam) reminded me of this today. He said that he respected us because we take our Christian faith seriously and we employ, and honour very committed Muslim and Christian staff. ("Christians are respected as an Abrahamic faith, and as People of the Book", he said.) In undertaking development work, having faith is “Not important, but VERY important. God created us to live in good conditions. We are not in a good condition, so we cannot separate God from development. God is the origin of development. Without faith I cannot believe in development because God shows the way that faith is at [its] heart.”

Ban the Tie

"Chile's government wants men in the South American country to take off their ties to help fight global warming, hoping the campaign will save on air conditioning as summer starts in the southern hemisphere."


It’s official, Ties are Evil! For a long time now I have managed to upset tightly tied leaders who have a strangle hold on the traditional idea that it is impossible to be professional without a precisely tied piece of cloth hanging around my neck. But all this time it has really been my environmental conscience, my deep seated, unconscious desire to be globally aware and save the rainforests that has driven my hatred of the throttle cloth.

If we could stop the ice melting in the Antarctic and save Pacific Islander’s homes from drowning by banning the tie – why wouldn’t we?

For the sake of the many species that are at threat of distinction because of global warming I say: “Ban the Tie”. We need a global campaign – and so I call on all those tightly wound executives, those people that feel strangled by the constriction of traditional windonsian restriction to remove their ties. Let’s make February 6 a Tie Free Day!

Together for a Better World for all: including persons with disabilities in development

As part of the celebrations to mark IDPWD, the Australian Disability & Development Consortium (ADDC), in conjunction with CBM Australia, will be holding an art exhibition at World Vision.

You are invited to view the art exhibition at the World Vision entry foyer, 1 Vision Drive, Burwood East, between 7 December and 8 December.

You are also invited to an afternoon tea to be held in the Auditorium on 7 December at 3:00pm. The artists featured in the exhibition have been invited to present and tell the story of their work. The exhibiting artists will also have their biographies and stories showcased. Light refreshments will follow to mark the celebration.

The intent of the exhibition is to show the work of Australian artists who have a disability, and to promote their abilities and opportunities. These works will be exhibited with complementary case studies that reflect the different opportunities of people with disabilities who live in developing countries.

The subjects of the case studies chosen have similar disabilities as the exhibiting artists. The organisations providing the case studies are CBM, End the Cycle, World Vision and Yooralla.