Citadels and Weddings

About 2,300 years ago Alexander the Great came to Herat and laid the foundations for what today is known as the Citadel of Alexander, Herat Citadel or Qala Iktyaruddin. Over the years a number of different conquering armies have used it and in the 1950s some bright military spark decided that it was too damages so started to demolish it to use the material for buildings elsewhere. He was soon dispatched, and the site was protected.

Over the past few years UNESCO, partnering with a number of donors, has undertaken the work of restoring this amazing Citadel. Sitting on top a man made hill in the middle of Old Herat City, it dominates the landscape and provides an amazing vantage point from which to see the City.

At over 250m in length and 70m wide and with some of it towers rising 60m above the ground, it is an awesome sight. Beautifully restored, amazingly clean and eerily quiet it stands in stark contrast to the chaotic liveliness of the bazaars, workshops, mosques and houses that surround it on all sides.

I had the opportunity to get out and visit the Citadel this morning, and with the help of a security friend get a backstage pass that allowed us to climb to the top of the towers, and to see areas that are still to be restored.

From the top of the tower I had a 360deg view of the city of Herat. Sand/mud houses spread out below us, with satellite dishes on their flat roofs; the famous Blue Mosque rose in the distance, one lone green tree stood in defiance. It was quite an amazing site.

In the distance, through the haze I could make out the Herat Minarets from which we had just travelled. At one time these were the focal points of a huge mosque complex, but today, out of the dozen or so there are only 5 left. Damaged badly, despite their UNESCO listing, they still manage to grab your attention. At the foot of one of the minarets young boys were using the dirt and natural divots as a BMX track, the excavated corridors and tunnels near another have become the local hangout for the hashish smokers, and at night – let’s just say this is a place you don’t want to be.

Standing next to the “leaning minaret” stands the amazing Mausoleum of Queen Goharshad who ruled in these parts in the 1400s. The original blue tile work still decorates some of the surfaces of the minarets and tomb. It is quite an amazing feeling to stand in these places that have dominated a people for over 2,000 years.

And, then just when we were ready to relax, we headed off as guests to a wedding. I sat with (what they tell me) was about 1,000 other men, the women were somewhere else in the building (don’t ask where) and we at goat, chicken, rice and bread to the accompaniment of very loud Afghan music and men dancing. The groom made an entrance and was walked around the room, and then left to have a meal with his new wife, and as soon as the food was done everyone left.

Quite an amazing day!