Look at the construction, and, even to an untrained eye, you know it is not good. The brick work is messy; bricks are lined up instead of staggered, bits of brick are shoved in to fill holes, and you can often see through the mortar joins - there is no doubt that the walls are not structurally sound. But, then add a faux granite finish complete with raised decorations, grind it all smooth and and it looks quite beautiful.
These new walls are appearing along the sides of the road in all directions, hiding what is behind and making the entries to the city very appealing.
Yesterday I had the privilege of visiting the only disabled day care facility in the country. In 2001 a mum, whose son was disabled, started a small day care centre for children like hers. She wanted her son to be able to integrate into society as best he could. She wanted him to walk, she wanted him to be confident to talk, she wanted him to be free to be part of the community.
In 2003 the centre was registered as a business, and today, they can't provide enough places for those that would like to be enrolled. The bottom floor of a typical Russian block of flats has been renovated to meet the needs of about 45 children and youth who come here daily.
A little girl came unable to sit up or move, but after massages with parafin in a small 2 bed room, I was introduced to her as she sat proudly on a play mat and smiled at the strange man. A little boy came unable to speak, but after sessions with the speech therapist he is now telling his Mum he loves her.
Children from as young as they can, to young adults in their 20s attend the day care Art Therapy sessions and make pictures that are shown in exhibition and sold. But as one of the teachers told me their greatest joy is that the teenagers and young adults are now in the market, in the shops, and in the restaurants - they are free and confident to be involved in community.
The only thing stopping the spreading of this dream to other communities and children is the money and the institutional willingness. (This centre is supported by an NGO and a couple of very large local businesses.) Lives are being transformed here.
