Land of the Eagle

Over night clouds have descended over colourful Tirana (capital city of Albania) and the snow capped mountains to the east block out a hopeful glimmer of sunshine. The temperature has dropped and the rain is falling steadily. But despite the gloomy outlook, the city laid out before me, home to about one million people is, to me, a fascinating mosaic of the unusual and the fascinating, the depressing and the hopeful.

Just across the way is a once grand marble and glass pyramid erected many years ago to celebrate a past dictator, a man that ruled over Albania for about 40 years and announced Albania to be the world's first 'atheist state'. Since his departure and the movement of the country to a Republic, some have demanded it's destruction - not wanting to celebrate a dismal period: others, more pragmatic, have advocated for its conversion to a worthwhile purpose. But today it stands as a sorry sight painted with graffiti, glass broken, marble damaged and dirty - once proud but now embarrassing.

A little further around, bordering Skanderberg Square a huge colourful mosaic billboard dominates the skyline and the front of the National Museum, whilst next to it the Opera House or the Palace of Culture stand guard around the statue of Skanderbeg on his horse, the hero of Albanian liberation from the Ottoman Empire.

The buildings of the city are colourful. As you look into the distance toward the mountains the houses and apartment buildings are painted all kinds of pastel colours - reminding me of a painting by Max Beckamnn. But prominent in the scene are the large modern St Paul's Cathedral with it's beautiful stained glass window celebrating Pope John Paul II and Mother Teresa and just around the corner a brand new Orthodox Autocephalous Church of Albania, with it's rich gold trim and towering bell tower. (The colourful icon frescoes on the walls are still being painted.)

In the foreground of this picture a park with a pond and fountain are already alive with the 'children of the eagle', (one of the meanings given to the Albanian name). Despite the steady rain and the cold temperature, people are meeting for coffee. This, my local friend tells me is code for, "let's talk". Family and community are the central cog of the culture - relationship and friendship are the currency.

I don't pretend to be an expert on Albania or her people, but from my very short time here I have heard people speak of hope in a way that gives me confidence that, despite the enormous and myriad challenges they face, the future is in good hands.